Planting garlic in the fall is so much fun. Why? Usually, we are planting seeds that tend to be small and to ensure germination multiple seeds are planted. Next, we thin our seedlings, a process no one likes. Garlic is different. As a bulb, garlic has individual cloves which are the seeds. The cloves are easy to handle, no need to plant multiple cloves per seedling and no need to thin. Yea! Let me share the process I follow for successfully growing garlic in the home garden.
Stop and smell the garlic! That’s all you have to do.
William Shatner
There are two main varieties of garlic
Garlic is usually planted in the fall for an early summer harvest and is part of the Amaryllidaceae family that includes onions, chives, shallots and leeks.
First, it’s important to purchase garlic from a reputable seed producer. Therefore, it’s not recommended to plant garlic purchased from a supermarket (usually the softneck variety) because supermarket garlic may be treated to prevent sprouting. You can also plant garlic from your crop. That said, each year I put aside the biggest bulbs of garlic from my harvest and plant those in the fall.
Garlic does not have significant pest or disease problems. The best prevention is raising healthy plants and keeping them healthy:
If you suspect that something is wrong with your garlic and live in the US, check with your Cooperative Extension for help in identifying and determining appropriate controls for pests and disease.
Hardneck garlic will have two harvests. First, the scapes will be harvested about one month before the bulbs are ready. When the scapes curl, they are ready for harvest and should be cut off. Second is the harvest of the bulb. For both hardneck and softneck, this will happen in late June or early July. The best way to determine maturity is to pull up a bulb and check it out. This can be done when you notice that 30-50% of the outer leaves have begun to turn yellow/brown.
Dig up the bulbs as opposed to trying to pull up from the stems of the plant. Use a shovel and dig down next to the bulb. After digging up, shake off the dirt from the roots and let dry for a couple of days outside in a shady, ventilated area. Then move the garlic indoors to cure for 4 weeks before use. I store my garlic on shelves in our basement until they are fully dried out. At that point, cut the stem down to one inch and cut off the roots flush with the bottom of the garlic bulb. Store in a cool and dry location with an ideal temperate of 60°F. Properly cured garlic should keep for anywhere from 6 -12 months depending upon the variety. Remember you can also use bulbs from the harvest for planting out in the fall.
Never store garlic in the refrigerator as this will cause shoots to sprout.
The stems of Softneck varieties can be braided after about two weeks before the stems become too stiff and brittle.
When using garlic for cooking, first separate the number of cloves needed from the bulb. Next, you can either crush or chop the garlic. Garlic can be crushed with either a garlic crusher or by placing the flat side of a knife on top of the clove and pressing down. To chop, peel the clove and then slice/chop using a sharp knife. Garlic can be sautéed and used as a base for sauces, soups and casseroles.
When cooking with garlic, try to avoid two common mistakes:
Good luck with growing garlic in your home garden!
Chesnok Red (8 months to harvest)
Family: Amaryllidaceae
Genus: Allium
Species: A. sativum
University of Minnesota Extension – Growing Garlic in Home Gardens
University New Hampshire Extension – Growing Garlic in New Hampshire
Michigan State Extension – Growing Garlic in Michigan
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