Growing Chrysanthemums in Pots from Seeds, Cuttings
Introduction to growing Chrysanthemums in pots
Chrysanthemum is a member of the Compositae family and is available in a wide range of brilliant colors, shapes, and sizes. Chrysanthemum plants are perfect for front porches, patios, balconies, and terraces. Growing Chrysanthemums in pots is extremely popular. In this article we also discuss below topics;
How long does the Chrysanthemum tree take to grow
Growing a Chrysanthemum from cuttings
Chrysanthemum plant propagation
Chrysanthemum plant care
Chrysanthemum propagation through division
Growing Chrysanthemum from seed
Chrysanthemum growing tips
A step by step guide to growing Chrysanthemumsplants in pots/containers
Growing Chrysanthemums in pots is a perfect garden solution for small gardens. Most garden mums grow to 2 to 3 feet in size and need at least a 12-inch container for the best support. Rich potting soil with good drainage is essential and to encourage root growth, water container mums from the bottom of the container. Add a water-soluble fertilizer on a weekly basis and because mums require the proper sunlight to set blooms, placing your plant in a south-facing window and away from artificial light produces the best results. Storing in a protected garage during the winter months can help plant rest for new spring growth.
Species and varieties of Chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemum belongs to the aster family and about 50 species. There are many colors, shapes, and sizes of Chrysanthemums- from tiny spheroids to starry and stately, giant single flowers. Chrysanthemums are the most famous flowers after roses.
The popular variety is Chrysanthemum x Grandiflorum. And this includes the hardy Chrysanthemums that are frost-resistant or partially resistant to frost. Pot mums or Florist’s mums are best if you want to grow Chrysanthemum in pots.
Choosing a healthy spot for growing Chrysanthemums
Choose a spot in your yard that gets a sunny location and a little bit of shade is okay. Chrysanthemums like the morning sun, so try to put them in a spot that gets sunlight in the earlier hours of the day. Chrysanthemums don’t like being constantly wet, so make sure the soil is able to drain easily and there’s plenty of air circulation.
If you’re unsure whether or not your soil is able to drain efficiently, then dig a hole using a shovel that’s roughly 1 foot deep. Fill the hole with water and see if all of the water is able to drain out in less than 10 minutes. If it’s not, your soil isn’t well-drained.
Germination of Chrysanthemums seeds
A warm, bright room with south- or west-facing windows provides the ideal conditions for germinating Chrysanthemum seeds. First, arrange the pots within 3 feet of a window. Unless temperatures stay reliably above 21°C, warm the pots with a heating coil or propagation mat and keep them covered with plastic wrap. Keep the top 1 to 2 inches of the soil moderately moist during the seed germination. If the room receives less than 6 hours of bright, natural sunlight each day, suspend a fluorescent grow lamp 12 to 15 inches above the pots to supplement the obtainable light. Then, closely monitor the moisture level in the soil when using a heating coil or fluorescent lamp because artificial heat will cause it to dry out faster.
Easy Chrysanthemumspropagation through division
Propagating Chrysanthemum is fast and easy when done through division. Mums benefit from division every 3 to 4 years to enhance the form and flowering of the plant. Then, this is done in spring and yields a spare plant or two. The centers of mums can begin to get leggy and even die out when they get older. In spring when the Chrysanthemum begins to show signs of sprouting, dig out the entire root ball of the plant. Use a sharp soil knife or spade and use it to cut the root ball into 3 to 5 sections. Each one of these sections can be planted to make a new Chrysanthemum plant.
Growing Chrysanthemums from seeds in pots
First, purchase seeds from a nursery or gardening store. There’s a wide variety of Chrysanthemum seeds are available.
Fill seed germination trays with a well-draining potting mix and you can purchase potting soil at a gardening store, or you can make your own. Then, fill each cell of a seed germination tray almost to the top with the soil.
You can purchase well-draining soil and germination trays. To tell if the soil in the yard has proper drainage, dig a hole that’s roughly 12 inches deep and fill it with water. If the water drains from the hole by the time about 10 minutes have gone by, the soil is well-draining.
Place 2 to 3 seeds into each cell of the germination tray. It’s easiest if you simply pour the seeds into the palm of the hand and use your fingers to gently place the seeds into the soil. Instead of clumping them all together, and spread the seeds out so that they’re not touching.
Sprinkle a fine layer of soil over the mum seeds. If you’ve located the seeds into the soil, you don’t need to sprinkle more soil on top. Though, if you simply dropped the seeds onto the soil, it’s best if you sprinkle a fine layer of additional soil into each cell to make sure the seeds are covered.
Use a spray bottle to make a fine mist over the soil. Fill a small spray bottle with water and spray the tray so that the soil is moist. When you touch the soil, it must be damp but not completely saturated.
Press the soil down lightly with fingers. This will help make sure the mum seeds have made contact with the soil and aren’t just sitting on top where they can be moved by wind or water. Use 2 or 3 fingers to gently flatten the soil with the bottom of fingers, not the tips.
If you’d like, you can place a heating mat under the tray to warm the soil for faster seed germination. You should start seeing results in 8 to 10 days. Monitoring the weather if you leave the seeds out on a porch is very important in case it happens to rain a lot, gets cold, or isn’t sunny outside for several days. Then, check the soil more often if you’re using a heat mat.
Transfer the mum seeds into separate pots when they’re a few inches high. When the stems grow to about 3 inches (7.6 cm), you can move them to separate pots so that their roots have more room to grow. Be careful when transferring them so as not to damage their delicate roots or stems. It must be time to transfer them after about 6 weeks.
Then, use a small spade or shovel to help remove the plants carefully. Propagate Chrysanthemums if you wish to use cutting and take a cutting from a Chrysanthemum and dip it in rooting hormone mix before planting. This produces more stable Chrysanthemums than growing them from seeds.
Growing Chrysanthemums from cuttings in pots
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First, fill a planting tray or pot with perlite. Water the perlite and then allow it to drain until you’re ready to plant the cutting.
Remove a 4- to 6-inch length of stem from a healthy, mature Chrysanthemum by pinching the stem with fingertips. Alternatively, you can remove the stem with scissors. Be sure the cutting has at least 4 leaves or leaf nodes small bumps where a leaf emerges from the stem. Take the cutting in the morning while the Chrysanthemum plant is well-hydrated.
Cut the bottom of the stem about 1/2 inches below the lowest leaf node. Use a new razor blade to make a clean cut and pull the leaves carefully from the lower half of the cutting. Then, insert the cutting into the moist perlite. Be sure only the bare stem is planted and that 1 or 2 nodes are under the soil. Situate the cutting then the remaining leaves are above and not touching the perlite. If you’re planting multiple cuttings, space the cuttings so the plant leaves don’t touch.
Place the cuttings in a warm room, in bright, indirect light. Don’t place them next to a sunny window, which can be too hot. Water as required to keep the perlite slightly moist at all times. Don’t overwater, as too much moisture can cause the cuttings to rot.
Check the cuttings for roots in 3 to 4 weeks. Then, look for roots extending from the bottom of the pot. You can use a spoon to lift a cutting carefully from the perlite. Inspect the roots and replant the cutting. The cuttings are ready to transplant when the roots are about 1 inch long.
Plant each rooted cutting in a small container filled with a good-quality potting mixture. Return the cuttings to a sunny location and maintain the potting mixture slightly moist. Allow the young plants to develop for an additional 4 to 6 weeks before planting the Chrysanthemums in their permanent home.
Watering and fertilizing requirement for growing Chrysanthemums
As Chrysanthemum plants have a shallow root system, they are exposed to fast-drying that’s why regular watering is recommended. Then, keep the soil slightly moist but not wet.
Feed the Chrysanthemum before the flower buds form to promote healthy roots, bud development, and a vigorous plant. You can apply 12-6-6 slow-release fertilizer during the beginning of the growing season or balanced liquid fertilizer according to the product’s instructions once in a couple of weeks.
Chrysanthemums care
Pests such as leaf and stem miners, Chrysanthemum eelworm, aphids, caterpillars, worms affect the mums. Some diseases like gray mold, powdery mildew, and root rot infect it.
Gardening tips for Growing Chrysanthemums in Pots
Carefully remove the faded Chrysanthemum flowers to encourage more blooms.
Prune dead branches and also discolored leaves.
Pinch your Chrysanthemum plant when it’s young to encourage bushier growth and also for more blooms.
Commonly asked questions about growing Chrysanthemums
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Why Chrysanthemums bloom in fall?
Chrysanthemum plants are short-day plants. In autumn, days become shorter, resulting in a change in light. Chrysanthemum shifts away from vegetative growth to generative and then starts to bloom.
How long do Chrysanthemums take to grow?
To grow Chrysanthemum from seed, sow at least 2 months before the first frost, or start indoors over the winter. The planting medium should be kept at 21-23°C, and seeds should germinate in 1 to 3 weeks.
Are Chrysanthemums easy to grow?
Chrysanthemums or mums are one of the most popular flowers. Most plant varieties are easy to grow with their basic needs being the full sun, rich soil, good drainage, and good air circulation.
Is Chrysanthemum a perennial?
Chrysanthemum plants are not annuals, they are herbaceous perennials. An herbaceous perennial plant has stems that die back at the end of the growing season.
Why is my Chrysanthemum plant dying?
The Chrysanthemum flowers may wilt and die quite suddenly. These diseases live in the soil and attack the plant roots, so they are hard to avoid. Lastly, poor environmental conditions such as overly wet or dry soil weaken the mums, which can lead to the plants becoming more susceptible to fungi, diseases, and insects.
Why are my white mums turning brown?
The main reasons for mums turning brown are heavy rain damage, insufficient water, and the natural flowering cycle. Deadheading brown blossoms and cutting back damaged Chrysanthemum plants will help keep mums looking their best and blooming profusely.
Will my Chrysanthemum grow back?
Chrysanthemum plants are not annuals, they are herbaceous perennials. An herbaceous perennial has plant stems that die back at the end of the growing season. New growth emerges from the rootstock every spring and creating a larger plant every year until it reaches its maximum size.
Why does Chrysanthemum leave turning yellow?
Garden Chrysanthemum that is planted in heavy soil or soil that drains poorly is not happy plants. The Chrysanthemum plants need well-draining soil to thrive. If the soil doesn’t release water, the mum’s roots drown and you see Chrysanthemum plant yellowing.
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